Bulova Mil Ships 98A325

This MIL-SHIPS Special Edition reaches back to a rare Bulova prototype developed for the U.S. Navy in 1957. The most curious detail is the little two-color moisture indicator on the dial, a nod to the original watch's practical diving-watch design. For Bulova's 150th anniversary, the case is made from CuSn8 bronze, a metal with the warm look of an old copper diving helmet. Bronze develops a patina with wear, so the finish can gradually become personal to its owner.

The deep-blue dial and matching bidirectional bezel sit beneath a double-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Luminous hands and markers help with readability, while a blue rubber-and-Cordura strap balances the bronze case. Inside is a 21-jewel automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve. Water resistance is 200 meters. The anniversary caseback and included storybook round out the package.

Our Take

The moisture-indicator detail is what makes this more interesting than another vintage-style diver. Add the bronze case, which will change appearance over time, and you get a watch that tells both Bulova's old Navy-prototype story and a new one of its own.